Agarwood oil or Oud oil is one of the most expensive material
used in the perfumery industry. Why is it so expensive? It is
because the raw material used to distill it is endangered and
listed as CITES appendix II. We can simply categorized
agarwood oil into two forms, natural wild oil and farm oil.
Natural Wild Agarwood Oil - Agarwood Oil which
has been distilled from wild agarwood trees, commonly through
Farm Agarwood oil/ Plantation Agarwood Oil
- Agarwood Oil which has been distilled from cultivated agarwood
trees, after they have been inoculated artificially for a period
Many agarwood oil distiller whom u met
or even the retail owners selling agarwood oil, will tell you
that their agarwood oil is pure. So the key question is, how do
we know and identify pure and adultered oil. Simple, all you
have to do is to make sure that you have sniffed the real
agarwood oil and use that as one of your reference. From there,
slowly pick up those base, middle and top notes and see if you
really like agarwood oil. Everyone has different preference and
some agarwood oil when mixed with other good ingredient, really
produce wonderful scent to be use in everyday.
problem many people faced are, they are smelling those agarwood
oil mixed with either buaya oil, diffferent region oil, lower
grade oil, glycerin, fennel oil and other essential oil.
It's true that agarwood oil is used mainly as a base or as one
of the ingredient for perfume making. To really check the oil's
composition, we need to use the Chromatography- Mass
Spectrometry (GS-MS) test to view it's compounds.
normal consumer, i would suggest to pick those agarwood oil
which you prefer and more importantly, it does not cause
irritation on your skin. Agarwood oil is strong and i would
suggest to use a little on your skin to test and wait for it to
tone down before applying it in large quantity. Most of the
agarwood perfume on ther market are using syntethic agarwood
oil, it gives a woody scent similar to some notes of the real
agarwood but defninitely far away from the real expereince.
While in more developed countries, if you have the
technology to induced higher resin content, it can be profitable
as well. But, that is when the technology is available and more
importantly, feasible to your costing. It just does not justify
when your cultivated wood is much more expensive than those good
quality natural wood.
Scent Natural Agarwood Oil versus
Cultivated Agarwood Oil
With the improvements in inoculation technology, it's fairly
easy to make the agarwood trees infected with resin and
distilled them within months of treatment. While cultivated
agarwood oil is often sold as natural one or mixed with lower
grade, it's cheaper and more sustainable in a way compare to the
Natural Agarwood Oil (Generally
regardless of region) - Earthy, Sweet and Rancid.
Cultivated Agarwood Oil - Most of the
cultivated agarwood oil has a sap and sour scent profile than
the natural oil. It does not have the age and mature scent of
natural agarwood oil, cultivated agarwood oil are mostly used in
mass market perfumery due to it's affordability and supply.
Uses of Agarwood Oil in Major Perfume Brand As early as YSL M7, which i still have a bottle
of it, western perfumers have started experimenting oud/agarwood
oil based perfume. Their approach is to tone down the strong
organic arab style agarwood scent and create a western version
out of it. Search online and you will find many brands carrying
oud based perfume, Gucci, Chanel, Tom Ford, Versace, Ermenegildo
Zegna and etc.
Niche and Smaller distiller If you are looking for pure and original version of
agarwood oil, there are a number of good sellers online each
with their own distillation technique, material selection and
marketing approach in selling their oil. Most distller embedded
their own agarwood journey on their website and it's a good form
of education and connection to buyers. Price are certainly on
the high side and some of them uses good material for
distillation as well.s
Our Agarwood Oil We pride ourself in selling
wild and natural oud. With stable source and access to wild
agarwood, we can make full use of good quality raw materials in
our hydro distillation and produce good classic agarwood oil.
The sweet and woody smell of agarwood oil last for hours
before fading into lighter and warm earthy notes. Our
agarwood oil last more than 12 hours on normal wear and longer
depends on each individual and applications.